dùn fortified stronghold (of the) + phris Scottish Gaelic woodland copse. Population - 33,470.
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Dumfries and Galloway
May 2024
Down in South West Scotland, Dumfries is fine if a little functional but you can blame the bypass for that. With the out-of-town shopping that sprung up around it, we've got ourselves another 'doughnut effect' of the kind last seen in Bury St Edmunds.
With no need now to drive right through it, there's not a lot left in the middle, they say, although it's more of a mini-doughnut effect given the size of the place, really.
There's still quite a bit of history and the very early, 18th-century Midsteeple functioned in various administrative forms before becoming the box office for events in and around town.
That, of course, is for people preferring a personal transaction for one of Dumfries & Galloway's blockbusting performances so yeah, take that Ticketmaster™!
The repurposing of the building, by the way, is just one part of an admirable effort by the community-focused Midsteeple Quarter organisation to rejuvenate Dumfries' centre.
Affordable residential, commercial and community spaces mean this could soon be Scotland's Hebden Bridge, not that we've been there, so yeah, take that Caledonia Park Designer Outlet in Gretna!
Dumfries House comes in a little younger than Midsteeple but hang on a minute! We seem to have relocated nearly 40 miles north and east to Ayrshire?
Dumfries House, like you didn't know already, is a charitable operation overseen by King Charles III, no less, the main aim of which is a heritage-led regeneration of the estate.
Established during his Prince's guise, republicans needn't necessarily scroll down because unless you don't mind paying toffs to look at their furniture, this is a cost-free stop-off.
You'll find it nearly 40 miles north and east of Dumfries in Ayrshire and the reason for relocating and conveniently combining is there isn't a massive amount to write home about on either subject, really.
Meanwhile, back in Dumfries, Midsteeple isn't the only eye-catcher with what's thought to be a former bank and an inevitable kirk soon encountered.
Even more inevitable, however, is the statue out front of Robert Burns, Scotland's national poet.
Now, every place in Scotland south and west of Glasgow, every place, will claim that Robert, Robbie, Rabbie, Rab, Rob or even Robin Burns either lived, worked, stayed the night or simply passed through without even bothering to stop, such is his renown.
Alloway, near Ayr, is his undisputed birthplace but Dumfries is his undisputed, well, deathplace. You can visit the actual room in his old family house where the ink finally ran out and his mausoleum in St. Michael's Cemetary if you haven't had your fill of him already in Alloway.
Burns' time in Dumfries was largely spent working as a tax collector and he lasted less than 10 years here before his untimely death at the age of just 37 in 1796.
Socially active during that time, today's takeaways and bars up on English Street would, sorry Dumfries, have finished him off far quicker.
One of Dumfries' finer fleshpots with an emphasis on the grub and it's down there on Buccleuch Street, somewhere.
It's also handy before and\or after the India Palm and, here's a confession, Slybob have been there twice before.
The first time round ranked as one of the best tandooris ever but the second was somewhat underwhelming. The gossip mongers in the Cavens tell us a raid by immigration saw to half of the kitchen staff, although this was a few years ago so you'll have to make your own mind up.
What is surprising, though, is this is hardly a major conurbation so this sort of situation isn't only happening near Norwich?
Meanwhile, back at Dumfries House, various earls and marquesses had called the place home since the 1750s but death duties in the 1990s forced the current owner's hand to sell.
The National Trust for Scotland, however, refused first refusal and not until Prince Charlie chipped in with a sizeable chunk did the charity that is now the King's Foundation take ownership.
It might not look like much of an arboretum, yet, but you should have seen it in 2007!
Traditional tools and techniques have been employed to create and restore some visual distractions with an emphasis on engaging and involving local youth.
Worthy stuff, for sure, an encouraging and educational hand for those starting off on a vocational journey where prospects aren't exactly plentiful in post-industrial Ayrshire, apparently.
Meanwhile, back in Dumfries, fans of the footie will be familiar with Queen of the South, a Scottish tradition of naming clubs with a minimal hint of where they're from and we're looking at you St. Mirren.
This lyrical label was indeed coined by a poet but not the one you're thinking of. No, David Dunbar scribbled this in 1857 and the team have been languishing in the lower divisions ever since.
You'll find the Doonhamers' ground on the other side of the River Nith, at least you can when the area isn't frequently flooded.
This happens on average once a year, and rising, and goes some way to explaining why most of White Sands is a car park.
Luckily, the river is on its best behaviour today and it's over the marvellously named Devorgilla Bridge to the Robert Burns Centre if you haven't had your fill of him already in Alloway.
If you have had your fill of him already in Alloway, the centre is home to a cinema where there's bound to be a screening of Braveheart on, probably.
The Devorguillas, by the way, were the ruling family of Galloway back even before Willie Wallace and Lady Dearbhfhorghaill, after whom the bridge is named, was the most powerful woman in the country.
The area of Badenoch in the Scottish Highlands has its own historical significance but the current queen of the Conservative Party, Kemi, can only dream of such power, right comrades?
Meanwhile, back at Dumfries House, remember when we said this is a cost-free stop-off?
Well, there might be a nominal charge for the upkeep of the maze but guided tours of the house and furniture, no thanks, fund the larger projects, no doubt, including the Chinese Bridge.
This is an alternative way over the broad burn than John Adam's, restored, mid-18th-century, original Avenue Bridge. That is inexplicably not shown but looks very much like how a restored, mid-18th-century bridge should.
Meanwhile, back in Dumfries, the main shopping area hides a handful of lanes that lead to nowhere in particular but there's one interesting-looking alley?
Down there is an old inn, a favoured howff, or a haunt if you'd rather, of Robert Burns who would periodically book in for a weekend away from the kids, they say.
There are guided tours of where he once supposedly sat followed by a wee dram of something proprietary provided by their sister operation, the Annandale Distillery.
If that all sounds a little opportunistic, the Globe Inn's current custodians David and Theresa have created quite an operation and look here, there's a degustation menu with wine pairings being offered.
Why not, it's the first night of your holidays and this is unrivalled dining in Dumfries despite those Spanish whites tending to be a bit samey. They're doing something very special and unexpected in the kitchen with Scottish, seasonal produce and the youthful staff are the right side of knowledgeable.
Why not, it's the first night of your holidays and even the Michelin™ guys have made it this far along the A75 to give it the thumbs up.
Is this happy hour enquired a curious Bob purchasing a pair of pre-Globe aperitifs. It's not thought that Tenant™s Lager qualifies as an aperitif but that's still remarkably good value and these are the usual prices.
The Scottish Government is big on cracking down on binge boozing and a written request for a change in charges is required for even the briefest of periods. This prohibitive administration is presumed to deter such events and you can't sip outside anywhere after 10 PM on the three days a year that it's an option in Scotland.
All of this explained by the helpful host and a pair of punters who, on clocking the accent, sing the praises of the Toon's Wetherspoon™s. Thanks very much, just popping back outside now but will soon be back in for a refill and we'll be out of your garden well before 10 PM.
Speaking of the 'Spoons, the mandatory offering in a town of this size is called the Robert... it's not is it? That's lazy even by Wetherspoon™s' standards. No, the Robert the Bruce, actually, since legend has it that Bob bumped off a rival to the Scottish crown somewhere near here.
There are no awards for their nearly-out-of-date ale but the Director of Contrived Waterhole Naming gets a (1/5) simply for not calling it the Robert Burns.
Meanwhile, back at Dumfries House, remember when we said this is a cost-free stop-off?
Well, there is a charge for the walled garden, which back in 2007 resembled a fly-tipping zone. The original area has now been restored for all things horticultural with relaxing terraces and colourful flora, when in season.
Her Maj. herself, RIP, opened the Queen Elizabeth Walled Garden but don't be fooled by the pavilion.
The building is a modern addition and this doubles-as-a-wedding-venue was only finished a fortnight before the grand unveiling in 2014.
There are five acres worth within these walls, which is nearly three Queen of the Souths, but the entire estate comprises around 2,000. If you hadn't picked up already, this is all really rather marvellous to wander around, whatever your thoughts are on the Royals.
It's also a cost-free stop-off but only if you don't opt for the maze or the walled garden or a guided tour of the house and furniture, no thanks.
Meanwhile, back in Dumfries, the reason for lumping this pair together was based purely on the name but it seems they have more than that in common. The Midsteeple Quarter and the King's Foundation are both striving to regenerate their respective surroundings with an emphasis on local involvement.
It's not thought, however, that King Charles, something that only now is starting to sound right, will head south and throw some pounds at the town.
That's a shame because, sorry Dumfries, English Street could do with a similar facelift.