market (a) market(-place) + hæfera Old English oats. Population - 24,779.
UK
>
England
>
Leicestershire
May 2024
This fine-looking and well-kempt town has a whiff of wealth about it with a smattering of your fancier retailers. Bob is reliably informed that not everywhere has a Jigsaw™ so Market Harborough might be a little bit that kind of place.
You'll have to watch your Green Cross Codes, though, at the confusingly kerbless area around the Square where a bewildering one-way system adds to the busyness.
Is that a classic buttercross across from the traffic, designed to keep the dairy dry on the day of the market in question?
Not so, it would seem, rather a very early, 17th-century grammar school and an exclusive one at that judging by the size of the classrooms? Initially intended for the education of poorer boys of the parish, it was soon highjacked by fee-paying toffs.
That was the case for over 200 years until the latest incarnation of the local school, which still bears the name of the benefactor Robert Smyth, reverted after the war progressing through the standard Grammar\Comprehensive\Academy rebranding.
It was recently responsible for a Rugby World Cup-winning captain and a Great British Bake Off victor but, regardless of any of that, O-Levels are still much easier than they used to be, right codgers?
Further education is provided at the Harborough Museum, which occupies the former Symington's Factory, which is where they manufactured, get this, women's corsets.
Not just any old corsets, followers of fashion will be familiar with the famous liberty bodice, no less. The factory flourished from its Victorian origins until 1980 when a different type of tight squeeze, this time economic, saw the inevitable happen although an equally entrepreneurial family member would last a lot longer.
Pea flour isn't normally top of one's shopping list but this powdered ingredient is considered to be the precursor to instant soup and fuelled the British military for a century, yum, yum.
Both operations were the town's main employers and while this may now have moved elsewhere, they are still going strong if you fancy a bit of Chicken Tonight™.
Can you Adam and Eve it is the name of the street on which the former factory sits and leads to an area of shopping and a repurposed Pizza Express™ that, sorry Harborough, could just about be anywhere.
Not that there's an awful lot of mooching to be done, the heart of the town doesn't extend much beyond the emergency services on Abbey Street.
That's a joke, kind of, although there's some slightly adventurous dining on St. Mary's Road but only if a repurposed Pizza Express™ isn't exactly your preference.
There are several slightly adventurous dining options on St. Mary's Road but SlyBob haven't had a tandoori in a fortnight. Advising trippers give this one the nod but boy is it busy meaning a 15-minute wait for a table, despite making a reservation, and, unlike Kelso, the poppadoms aren't comped!
Asian small plates or Mediterranean are other choices along this stretch but SlyBob haven't had a tandoori in a fortnight.
That means that after the frequently floody River Welland, that would appear to be Market Harborough done.
We did drive in past a wharf but that's miles, well, nearly a mile, away. Turns out that's a different body of water and the end of the line of the Grand Union Canal, Market Harborough branch when pea flour was in short supply in Birmingham and London.
Hang on, there's an informative sign in this small memorial garden that might shed more light on the place. Something about the English Civil War or something?
Like you didn't know already.
Charles I was a fully paid-up member of the Divine Right of Kings club, which basically meant he thought he could do what he wanted. Peeing off Parliament, Protestants and the general population with his random taxations and Catholic connections, things eventually boiled over into a full-blown civil war in 1642.
Three years of ding-dongs were indecisive before Charles' army assembled near Harborough the night before the Battle of nearby Naseby. The King's forces were defeated but Charles escaped, escaping capture for three more years before being handed over to Oliver Cromwell who himself had briefly called Harborough home.
A second but smaller civil war hardly helped the case for the defence and Charles eventually lost his head in 1649 although they did stitch it back on, him being a king and all.
Not that Cromwell was all that popular, neither, his puritanical stance meant that people had to celebrate Christmas like there was a lockdown on.
He lasted only nine years as Lord Protector and his less-than-effective son of a successor caused rumblings in the republic leading to the restoration of the monarchy with Charlie II assuming his dad's mantle.
The people then started to party like it was 1699 and while there may have been a bit more to it, if Wikipedia™ is to be believed, that's SlyBob's understanding of one of the most important periods of English History.
With both sides spending time in Harborough before and after the battle, it's not like they're still banging on about it - oh yes they are! Information boards pepper the place and every old building or site claims Charles I stayed the night before the fight.
It's unlikely he popped into the apt King's Head for a nightcap, however, nor the Nag's Head next door, neither, and he won't have stayed at the Three Swans.
The Dun Cow, on the other hand, is a possibility where the early evening clientele are best described as, erm, lively. If this was a Friday night in 1645, the whole thing could have kicked off because Charles spilt someone's pint!
Acceptable lodgings and Charles I definitely didn't stay in the modern annexe round the back, which is where they stuck SlyBob. Crafty brews, too, in the bar, which looks to be on the Harborough Friday night circuit.
Come Saturday lunchtime, their restaurant is filling with ladies what lunch meaning Market Harborough definitely is a little bit that kind of place.