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Sidmouth >  Google™ Map Sep 2023+  Devon Coat of Arms

sid Unknown (river name) + mūða Old English (large) river mouth, estuary. Population - 12,569.

England-Devon Flag UK > England > Devon

Sep 2023+

Devon Coat of Arms

It's not known who or even what Sid was but they-stroke-it gave name to a river on which Sidbury, Sidford and Sidmouth all sit. Not just a river but a valley, the Sid Valley, of course, or Sid Vale if you want to go all familiar, and in that vale you'll find a trail.

Not one of your long-distance paths or even a way but a few trails, actually, and they are what's right up SlyBob's street, these days. It's a bit of a shame, then, that no trail will be trampled because we've been sidetracked by the small matter of a town but more on that in a minute.

That means no time even for the Sid Tree Trail, seriously, a trawl around the outskirts taking in all things tall and green. It has been created by the Sidmouth Arboretum, a registered charity that's not a real arboretum, really.

Not because it doesn't involve a confined space that you drive to and pay to get in but because there isn't a café and gift shop in which to buy a book about trees. That, by the way, is the technical and official definition of an arboretum.

As for being sidetracked by the small matter of a town, more like seduced since Sidmouth itself looks not a little unlike this.

This one can be filed in the 'quaint and quirky' category of seaside settlements, a few miles east of Exmouth, which isn't quite so quaint and quirky but that's another story.

All of this down on the coast in South East Devon and the sandstone cliffs are part of just about the start of the Jurassic Coast.

It doesn't all belong to Dorset, you know, but they're erosion prone making the concrete of the esplanade necessary.


Not originally put in place by the inevitable Victorian invaders who came with the railway, the resort pre-dates their expansion plans by several decades and they're rightfully proud of their Regency here.

That includes the original York Hotel and the balconies of the Royal York & Faulkner still provide the sea views that no Airbnb™ in Exmouth can, right Fawlty?

  Mount Pleasant Hotel (Salcombe Road)

Fine accomodation provider and that large group of golfers weren't nearly as noisy as expected. Ten minutes north of town, you'll pass it on the Sid Tree Trail, seriously, on the way into the Byes, Sidmouth's popular and best bit of public greenery that all skirts the River Sid.

No need for a toll these days, though, you'll be needing that spare change for the parking elsewhere. It's another bit of late-Regency architecture that's worthy of a plaque and a remarkable example of social housing in a Greek Revival stylee.

There's nothing too much to fuss about heading west along the Esplanade other than to be further seduced by your sunny, seaside surroundings and Sidmouth Castle.

It's not a real castle, really, although it is what's left of a fort following centuries of fear of invasion by the French. Defensively speaking, however, these insurgents had no bother clambering up by the looks of it.


As for Sidmouth's real castle, here it is perched on the way to more sandstone cliffs that bookend the bay in which the town sits.

Except it's not a real castle, neither, rather some elaborate adornments on some old toff or other's private home and you can get up and at it via Jacob's Ladder, a wooden structure that's not quite as rickety as it looks.


Most of this old house was demolished back in the '30s leaving just the 'castle' standing to now sell ice creams and suchlike.

That was following a controversial purchase by the local council, controversial in that it was the townsfolk who were felt to be footing the bill. That, however, allowed the authorities to start cleaning up the garden, the garden you say?

That garden will be Connaught Gardens, named after the Duke of, the 7th of Queen Vic.'s kids, whose scissors cut the ribbon to the public in 1934.

It can't be stated enough how bloomin'-marvellously well-tended this all is with the original layout and features restored, it's thought.

As free, public spaces go, this don't play second fiddle to nowhere else in Devon, probably.


Thanks to the relatively temperate climate, it's full of exotic shrubbery that's way beyond SlyBob's botanical knowledge.

Not unless, that is, you're talking about a clear, glass bottle with 'London' or 'Plymouth' printed on it, right tipplers?

Despite being no strangers to Dorset, this bit of Devon, Totnes excepted, hadn't really registered on SlyBob's radar before. It definitely ain't no best-kept secret, though, as evidenced by the contents of the car park opposite Connaught Gardens.

There are more four-wheeled carriages parked on the cricket pitch nearby but they are of the vintage variety and with no particular interest that means there's no actual evidence. Apologies to petrolheads for passing this over but there's bound to be a similar gathering near you soon enough if that's what gets your engine started.

It's only mentioned in passing to re-emphasise the place's popularity and because that's one way back to town where there's plenty left to see.

Vultures of the cultural are catered for with a gallery in Kennaway House, just one example of the fine Regency architecture another of which was formerly the world's poshest social club?

Rainy-day mooching is provided for by everybody's favourite, the good old-fashioned, family-run department store. Fields of Sidmouth, inexplicably not shown, has been operating from the same building since 1809 when it was, indeed, all fields round here.

They're confident enough not to bother with an online option, although they do have an 'app', and the staff are super vigilant. One of the lingering attendants clearly thinks Bob is a shoplifter but he's only minding his own business while Sly has a shufti.


Independents abound on the slightly more functional Fore Street, a South West thing that would ordinarily be called High Street where you live.

With the saltwater out of sight, there's no longer the sense of a seaside town and the pedestrianised Old Fore Street could be the smarter part of any small town in Derbyshire, say?

At least it could be if it wasn't called Fore Street, eh?

  Myca's Seafood & Grill (Fore Street)

Neil's Restaurant, one of Sidmouth's fancier dining options doesn't have a single table free, which is strange because SlyBob have booked? Oh no! The reservation is for next weekend so yes, we are idiots but there's no need to take that tone, it's not thought that wrong click on the calendar will kill you.

That means the all-too-familiar territory of trying to source some nourishment in a busy resort on a Friday night. "Give us half an hour, we should have a table free" says the lady in Myca's on Fore Street.

It's a remarkable bit of good fortune and they too focus on the fish, the mackerel and red gurnard fresh off a local boat earlier that day. They've beefed up their menu for the fussier eater and everyone in this family-run operation has a grin.

Very occasionally, it should be said very occasionally, situations like this make all of this nonsense very nearly worthwhile and we're thinking of you again Totnes.

This all leads back to the eastern end of the Esplanade and to where the town runs out but remember that sandstone cliff from earlier?

Well, you can get up and at Salcombe Hill via this weekend's temporary funfair and a bridge but for a brief time that wasn't the case.


The original Alma Bridge suffered severe damage from a swollen River Sid in 2012 but where hasn't in the South West? They would have to wait eight years for a replacement but you-know-what delayed the installation requiring the toffs at the top to take a diversion to another crossing upstream just to do their shopping at Fields.

Bob wished that was still the case because it's a bit of a puffer up Cliff Road, a big clue, but persevere because there are, not unsurprisingly, excellent views from up here. East towards Dorset and west down to town and the rest of Devon but you might already know that?

This is part of the South West Coast Path, you see, England's longest National Trail and if you're walking anticlockwise from Minehead in Somerset then well done, you're about 530 miles in so just the 90-or-so to go to Dorset.


Day 45 is described as 'severe to strenuous' so you can carve your next of kin's details into the sandstone below Sidmouth, erm, 'Castle' when you arrived last night, idiots!

If you're coming from Dorset then it's still about 530 miles to Minehead and you've yet to make your mark in the sandstone, idiots, and you're going the wrong way anyways, idiots!

A-ha! It's now known why there's a vintage car rally and a mini funfair, we've only accidentally arrived at the annual Sidmouth Carnival although it's not quite on the same scale as Rio's.

A procession of floats down Fore Street then onto the seafront but there's a problem. It's running a bit late and the Swan Inn stop serving food tonight at 8 PM!

Because of the influx, that looks to be the best option for a bite so, sorry Sidmouth, we'll have to pass on the parade. It is, however, the talk of the town and the biggest buzz since the local branch of the video-rental chain Blockbuster™s closed.

Blockbuster™s famously failed to foresee the future and follow Netflix into the digital market and by 2015 all of its stores were shut. That was the case in Sidmouth and the now surplus stock was sold off in a desperate attempt to recoup some revenue.

Yes, they still talk of the signs for the Sid Vale Vid Sale and Ade at the Swan Inn can even now be heard bragging of getting a Blu-ray of Batman Begins for 80p.

Now, it's about time that the Sid Vale Association get a mention, the oldest Civic Society in Britain, no less. They're based in the former, posh social club, remember, and as well as operating the town's museum, they own and maintain land including some of the Byes and the Sid Tree Trail, seriously.

We are in no way trying to undermine the fine work in and around town that they do but the Sid Vale Vid Sale? Come on!

  The Swan Inn (York Street)

One of just a small number of options for a post-parade pint but Ade is nowhere to be seen, he's upstairs watching Batman, again, probably.

Friendly Julia, on the other hand, is all hands to the handpumps in between managing the seating arrangements for their array of grub in this traditional pub. Things are understandably seasonal in somewhere like Sidmouth but they've had to focus on food since things still aren't back to what they were before you-know-what.

There's an outdoor area out back, which would have been a waste with the weather in Exmouth, so enjoy your well-deserved winter break and see you again, definitely.

What's What
 Myca's Seafood & Grill
 Neil's Restaurant
 Royal York & Faulkner Hotel
 Sidmouth Arboretum
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